Symmetry is wanted but not a kill-criteria. Except to pay a premium per carat for paired gems. A fully closed back-side is a rare feat in pear. Look-up our section on pairs on this page if you are seeking material for earrings or sidestones. They hide inclusions no more than other shapes and cuts. Asymmetric windows (if any) show in one half and perhaps disappearing in the other. This means on monitor, as in person, one will find stronger colors, deeper hues in the tips but brighter tones in the wide sections. Kite/Pear: Loved for pairs, this shape is the only born to be asymmetric at least along one axis. Because they need special equipment, know-how, eat weight and not everybody likes them, they are difficult to find and quasi non-existing in some varieties. They are a great add-on, will cover inclusions, but distract from a gem's main feature, namely color. Concave cuts in emerald-shapes do the impossible: add luster. If they are not symmetric, they will be difficult to set and look strange when set. This shape does not hide inclusions well, has few facets thus less luster, should be highly symmetric with parallel sides and centered back-lines. ![]() Emeralds come to mind first, but also color changers, opaque mandarin, deep blue sapphire or other gems paid for their strong colors. Often used in low dispersion varieties, dark tones or opaque rough. They reflect more light than ovals, or should do so, thus the image may well show a full reflection where ovals tend to sparkle only in one third or half of the gem's width at one time.Įmerald: The choice shape for gems bought for color not luster. Square cushions are more in demand than rectangular ones. Geometrically pleasing cushions are higher priced than crooked ones. Again you will want more facets to increasing a gem's luster. Watch out for incomplete or missing center-facets AND photos/videos taken from an angle to hide off-center cutting. They may sport windows but less so than ovals. As the name says, they may look like any cushion but not round, oval or with strict 90degree corners. With some experience a front shot of an oval gives away cutting flaws, true color and inclusions alike.Ĭushion: They can take all roundish forms between long rectangular (frequent) and square (less so) and have no standards. There is little escaping ovals on the web (or offline) but their images are telling. The more facets, the better, but ovals are not the ideal shape for highest brilliancy. To avoid windows, watch the center for a weaker or different hue, black holes or other irregularities. Facets must fill the whole gem's back including the centre. ![]() ![]() Count with a half loss to change into round, and a third to emerald shapes. Buyers beware if you want to purchase a cheap oval and have it recut. Rubies and alexandrites are rare in round and demand way higher prices than a plain oval. The higher priced a gem variety the more ovals will you find. They like to end in windows (the see-through fish-eye effect and bane of all good gems), are often irregularly shaped or/and off-center. Oval covers all between cushion and round with the former being the 2nd most used shape but the latter the most desired. Because it is weight-sensitive and follows the natural crystal shape of most varieties, a good half of all gems reach in market in this shape. Oval: Used for the majority of all rough. The seven main shapes, roughly along decreasing availability and increasing demand: Precision cuts will be found in many classic shapes and fancy cuts. Also, view our section on precision cuts for the high quality today demanded of many disconcerting buyers. We disregard cabochon and free form here but see 'shape' for stars as an important point decreased above. Strictly spoken we're looking at shapes, not cuts. There is a Portuguese cut in round shape, or a brilliant cut in square cushion. ![]() BTW, even the terms cut and shape are merging in definition. Here are the main shapes and a few words to their presentation on monitor. Since there are more lapidaries in the world than gem varieties, somebody will always disagree. A recent survey amongst lapidaries has found no less than six names for the same cut and shape worldwide (princess). There are not as many shapes, cutting styles and types as gem varieties, also they are less defined than you may think, or wish.
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